James Suckling Review - Ryan Montgomery

Recently, Ryan Montgomery of James Suckling visited us to explore our range of biodynamic cool-climate wines. The trip would take him all over Tasmania visiting vineyards and meeting with vignerons to taste and review wines. Our vineyard manager, Marco Lubiana, showed Ryan through our Granton vineyard, it was a glorious Spring day in the Derwent Valley, before they tasted the wines featured below in the cellar. Ryan described us in his article below:-

'Stefano Lubiana Wines, established in 1990 by fifth-generation winemaker Stefano Lubiana and his wife, Monique, is one of Tasmania’s pioneering family-owned wineries. Located in the Derwent Valley, just outside Hobart, the vineyard was founded with a vision to produce premium cool-climate wines while committing itself to biodynamic practices, achieving full certification in 2013.  This dedication comes through clearly in the Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir Tasmania La Roccia 2022, which offers pure and lifted aromas of dark cherry, forest floor, and wild raspberries, complemented by tightly wound acidity and finely integrated tannins, culminating in a nearly perfect Australian pinot noir with an Old World charm.'

During Ryan's visit he reviewed a range of our current wines with our La Roccia 2022 being scored the highest out of all wines tasted on the day with 98 points. Marco also treated him with a sneak preview of the next release of our top wines; our 2013 Grande Vintage, 2023 Collina Chardonnay and 2023 Sasso Pinot Noir, all of which were bottled earlier this year and will benefit from further maturation on cork before their respective releases in 2025.

La Roccia 2022, Single Block Pinot Noir - 99 Points, limited
'Sophisticated and pure, with lifted aromas of dark cherries, forest floor, wild raspberries, dried herbs and orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with tightly wound acidity and finely integrated tannins, giving notes of blackberries, potpourri, violets and chalk. Exceptionally well constructed, with a savory edge from 100% whole-cluster fermentation. A nearly perfect and complete Australian pinot noir. Brilliant. Drink or hold.'

Ruscello 2022, Single Block Pinot Noir - 96 Points, limited
'Perfumed and lifted aromas of dark cherries, Damson plums, cocoa, dried herbs and amaro liqueur. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of wild raspberries, pine resin, strawberries and lavender. Well balanced and vibrant, with a savory undertone coming from 100% whole cluster. Excellent. Drink or hold.'

Il Giardino 2022, Single Block Pinot Noir - 95 Points, limited
'Vibrant aromas of crushed strawberries, amaro liqueur, wet bark and dark cherries. The palate is medium-bodied with finely integrated tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of cocoa beans, orange peel, ferric earth and plums. Grown on clay soils and fermented with 100% whole cluster. Excellent. Drink or hold.'

Estate Chardonnay 2023 - 95 Points
'Flashy and flinty aromas of orange blossoms, grapefruit peel, lime curd and hazelnuts on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with focused acidity, giving notes of lemons, sea salt, graphite and pastry. A tightly wound wine that will age nicely in bottle for many years to come. Excellent. Drink or hold.'

Estate Pinot Noir 2023 - 94 Points
'A refined nose, mute but shimmering with intent as it is clearly marked by depth and precision, with just the faintest allusions of fruit. This is a mid-weighted wine of structural torque, hinting pomegranate, persimmon, kirsch, forestry scents and rose hip after a workout in the glass. Perhaps the most enticing of the single site cuvees in its youth. A wonderful, incisive drive through the mouth, directed by beautifully managed tannins, taut but svelte at the same time. The tannins, the signature of the estate. A long life ahead. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.'

Brut Reserve NV(2022) - 93 Points, new release
'Complex aromas of red apple skin, Asian pears and hazelnuts. The palate is textural with fresh acidity, giving notes of shortbread, lemon confit and mandarin rind. Nicely constructed, with a nutty edge coming from blended reserve vintages that then spent two years on the lees in bottle before disgorgement. 4 g/L dosage. Drink or hold.'

Pinot Gris 2023 - 93 Points, limited 
'Light orange in appearance. The nose gives perfumed aromas of orange pith, fresh ginger, rose petals and chalk. The palate is textural with finely integrated acidity and a slight phenolic grip, giving notes of lemon peel, mandarins and red apples. Nicely rounded mouthfeel with an underlying freshness. Two days of skin contact followed by fermentation in barrel. Drink or hold. Screw cap.'

Grande Vintage 2013 - 96 Points, not released yet
'Complex and focused aromas of lemon peel, white nectarines, honeysuckle and shortbread. The palate is focused with vivid acidity, a finely beaded mousse and a textural mouthfeel, giving notes of grapefruit pith, puff pastry, hazelnuts and chalk. Incredibly balanced and fresh for sitting in bottle on the lees for 10 years. Made from a 50-50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Disgorged July 2024. Excellent. Drink or hold.'

Collina Chardonnay 2023 - 96 Points, mid-2025 release
'Tightly wound aromas of lemon peel, lime curd, orange blossoms and flint. The palate is medium-bodied with laser-like acidity and a creamy texture, giving notes of mandarin rind, white nectarines and red apple skin. Made from select hillside parcels and treated with a light hand in the winery. Pure class. Drink or hold.'

Sasso Pinot Noir 2023 - 96 Points, mid-2025 release
'Deeply perfumed and lifted, with aromas of dark cherries, wild blackberries, rhubarb and orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with finely integrated tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of cranberries, dried herbs, graphite and blueberry bush. Quite austere and focused, coming from 50% whole cluster in a cool vintage. Delicious. Drink or hold.'